Sewing-machine for covering seams.



l. BERGER, Jn. SEWING MAcHlNE FOR covEmNesE/xms.

APPLICATION FILED'AUGJI. 1916. Patented Sept. 3,1918. 3 SHEETS-SHEET l 1. BERGERJRA SEWING MACHINE FOR COVERING SEAMS.

APPLICATION FlLED AUG,2l. 1916.

L 97?9535; atented. Sept. 3, 1918. g

SUSHEETS-SHEET 2. 'A

J. BERGER, la. SEWING MACHINE FOR covEmNG sEAn/ls.

APPLICATION FILED AUG.2I, |916.

LQWS@ mmmedsept. 3, 1918..

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

II'IH Ill JOSEPH BERGER, JR., F UTICA, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION 0F ILLINOIS.

SEWING-MACHINE FOR COVERING SEAMS.

'specification of Letters Patent.

rarement sept. a, raie..

Application led August 21, 1916. Serial No.116,037.

a. citizen ofthe United States, residing at:

Utica, in the county of Oneida, State of New York, have invented certain new and 4useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines for Covering Seams, of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompanying drawing and to the figures of reference marked thereon. l

This invention relates generally to' new and useful improvements in sewing machines, and more particularly to sewing machines of that type employed in covering lpreviously formed seams of various articles. It is herein shown as applied to a machine for covering knitted sweaters.

Heretofore, these seams have been covered by a two-needle machine which laid a covering thread both above and below the seam. rll`he resultant covered seam necessarily exposed one of said cross threads to view, and also both cross threads were insuiiicient to hold the shoulder seams against stretching in a direction toward the shoulders.

One of the principal objects of this invention is, therefore, to provide a sewing machine having a` pair of spaced needles and a single looper coperating therewith to la-y a cross thread on the underside of the seam only, and to provide means for guiding a tape against the under face of the fabric whereby said tape will be stitched by both needles andpartially covered by the lower cross thread, thus avoiding any seam on the outside of the seam and serving to reinforce the underside .of said seam by the tape whereby said seamwill be prevented from becoming stretched in a longitudinal direction as well as crosswise. A

Another object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine havin a diiferential feeding mechanism for gathering the knitted fabric as it is 'fed to the stitching mechanism whereby said fabric will be prevented from becoming stretched during its passage through the stitching mechanism, and to provide a guide Vfor directing the covering tape from a point below the feedin mecha- 4nisin andthence between the di erential feeding dog to the main feeding dog whereby thezadierential feeding dog will only act on of spaced needles,

the knitted fabric and thereby permit said id ierential feeding dog to perform its func- These and other objects will in 'part be obvious' and will in partbe hereinafter more fully disclosed.

In the drawings, which show by way of illustration lone embodiment of myinvent1on2 YFigure l is a side elevation of a sewing machine embodying my invention, 'parts thereof being shown inL section to clearly disclose the feeding mechanism;

Fig. 2 is an enlarged detail view, parts thereof being shown in section to clearly show the manner of directing the covering tape to the main feed dog;

Fig. 3 is a detail plan view of the work support showing the guide for the covering tape;

Fig. 4 is a detail front end elevation of the work support, showing the tape being led upwardly therethrough;

Fig. 5 is a view showing the work support in cross section and the presser foot in elevation;

Fig. 6 is a detail-top plan/"view showing the relation between the main and diderential feeding dogs and the looper; and

Fig. 7 isa detail bottom plan view` of the completed article, the article and stitch being shown conventionally for convenience, it being understood that the article is a knitted sweater and the stitch the Union Slpecial twin needle stitch, well,known in t 1e art.

The invention is preferably applied to a,

feed-up-the arm machine which comprises the usual cylindrical work support, an overhanging arm, a presser foot, a pair a single threadedlooper coperating with both needles, and a diderential feeding mechanism. The sweaterfsections, which have been previously seamed by a single line of through stitches, is opened out and fedv through the stitching mechanism of the machine above described. Ik a covering tape Vis led upwardly through the end cap of the work support and thence u wardly between the differential and main feeding dogs so that the differential feeding dog will act directly on the knitted fabric and gather the same in advance of the fili imi

overhanging arm is a needle bar 8, carrying a spaced pair of needles 9 and 10 respectively. This needle bar is reci rocated through the medium of a needle ever 11 ,which is dpivoted on the overhangingarm at 12 an has connection with the needle bar by means of a link 13. Thev needle lever 11 is oscillated by a pitman 12 coperating with an eccentric on the main shaft 13, said shaft being j ournaled in the standard 5 and arranged in a plane at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the work support 6. Also mounted in the overhanging arm 7 `is the usual presser bar 14 which carries at its lower endthe presser foot 15. Journaled in the work support 6 is a looper rock shaft 16 and mounted upon this shaft is a thread carrying looper 17 which coperates with both needles 9 and 10 to form what is generally known as a. twin needle stitch. The looper shaft 16 is oscillated in its bearings from the main shaft 13 to give said looper its loop taking and loop shedding movements. This looper'shaft `is also given an endwise movement from the main shaft 13 so as to give to the looper its needle avoiding movements. It will thus be seen that thelooper 17 has the usual four-motions imparted thereto.

Also mountedin the work support 6 is a main feed bar 18`which carries a main feed dog 19. Disposed between the feed bar 18 and the main shaft 13 is a train of mechanism which im arts to ysaid feed dog the usual back and orth and up and down, or four-motion movements. Shdably mounted in the main feed bar 18 is a differential feed bar 20, and this bar moves up and down in unison with the main feed bar 18 but is capable of having a differential movement thereto. `Secured to the forward end of the di'erential feed bar 20 is a differential feed dog 21 and disposed between the feed bar 20 and the main feed bar 18 isa train of mechanism for controlling the tape.

imacat do not claim any of the above structure encept in combination with my invention, as will vbe hereinafter described.

Secured -to the front end of the work support 6 is a throat plate 23 which is provided with the usual feed slots for receivin the main feed dog 19 and differential feed: dog 21. This throat plate is provided with the usual needle openlngs for the needles 9 and 10. These needle openings are disposed at a distance slightly in advance of the differential feed dog 21, and the throat plate in front of the needle openings is formed with `an elongated guiding slot 24. The differential feed dog embodies three feed sections, the outer sections 25 and 26 being longer than the intermediate section'27 so as to gather the knitted fabric and carry the same up to the needles, the intermediate section 27 being disposed in front of the slot 24 to assist in feeding the gathered material up to the tape which is fed upwardly through the slot 24. It will thus be seen that the guiding slot 24 for the tape is disosed between the main and differential feed dogs. Detachably secured to the outer end of the work support 6 is the usual end cap 28 and the covering tape T is led through an inclined opening 29 at the lower corner of the end cap and thence upwardly against the front face of said cap, thence through .an opening30 in the front wall of the end cap, and finally upwardly through the guiding slot 24.

In the operation of this machine, the previously seamed knitted sections S and S are fed to lthe stitching mechanism, the edges thereof being disposed on the under side thereof so as to be covered by the tape. The sealn of the garment is directed onto the tape so that the needles will enter the sections of the garment on either side of the previously formed seam and also enter the The looper thread which coperates with the two needle threads will lay a cross thread against the under side of said tape. By leading the tape upwardly between the main and differential feed dogs, the diderential dog will not engage the tape but will engage the knitted fabric and cause ,the latter to be suiliciently gathered to prevent any undue stretching thereof while the article is being fed from under the presser viously formed seam; and that by omitting the upper cross thread the garment thus formed will not disclose any covering threads on `the outside thereof.

lt is obvious that minor changes in the details of construction and the arrangement remesa of parts may be .made without departing from the spirit of this invention, as set forth in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim .as new and desire to secure by Letters-Patent is l. A sewing machine including in combination stitch forming mechanism having spaced needles, means for guiding the previously joined edges of .fab-ric sections centrally between said needles and means for guiding a tape to the stitch forming mechanism from a point'below the guiding means and between the guiding means and the needles, whereby said tape is joined by the .needles to the fabric sections and covers the under face of the joined edges.

2. A sewing machineincluding stitch forming mechanism and differential feeding mechanism, and means for guiding a tape to the stitch forming mechanism from a point below the feeding mechanism between the elements of the differential feeding mechanism, the differential element of the feeding mechanism operating upon the body fabric only and the main feed element of the differential feeding mechanism operating upon the body fabric and the tape after the latter is stitched to the body fabric.

A3. In a sewing machine, stitch forming mechanism including spaced needles and an under concatenatin thread laying mecha'- nism, a feeding mec anism including a main feed dog and a differential feed dog, the latter being located in advance of the needles, and means for guiding a tape to the stitch forming mechanism between the differential and main feed dogs whereby the body fabric may be gathered in advance of the needles andthe tape stitched to the fabric.

4. In a sewing machine, stitch forming mechanism including spaced needles and an under cross' thread laying mechanism, a.,

feeding mechanism including a mainV feed `dog and a differential feed dog, the latter being located-in advance of the needles,l and means for guiding a tape to the stitch forming' mechanism between the differentiall and main feed dogs whereby thev body fabric may be gathered in advance of the needles and the tape held and covered by the under cross thread laying mechanism.

5. A sewing machine including a longithereon -and provided with tudinal Work support, stitch forming mechanism comprising spaced needles and an under thread concatenating mechanism, a feeding mechanism working longitudinally of the work support and including differential and .main feed dogs, and means for guiding a tape from below the needle mechanism between the differential feed dog and the main feed dog, the differential feed dog being arranged to act only on a body fabric and the main feed dog upon the stitched and taped fabric, the tape being covered by the under concatenating thread.

6. A sewing machine including a longitudinal Work support, stitch forming mechanism comprising a pair of spaced needles and asingle lower cross thread laying mechanism, a feeding mechanism Working longitudinaly of the work support and including di erential and main feed dogs, and means for guiding a tape from below the. feeding mechanism between the diderential and the main feed dogs, whereby the dierential feed dog will act only von the body fabric being stitched, and the main feed dog upon the stitched and taped fabric, and

the lower thread will cover the tape.

7. In a machine of the character described, the combination with spaced needles andunder thread concatenating mechanism, main and differential feed dogs, a throat plate having needle and feed dog slots and having a transverse slot located in advance of the needle Openings and in rear of the di'erential feed dog slots whereby a tape may be guided from below ,through the throat plate to the stitch forming mechanism. i.

8. In a machine of the character described, a work support, an end cap mounted guiding slots, a dierential feeding mechanism including differential and main feed dogs, said guiding slots in the end cap being arranged toV gulde a tape from below the feeding mechanism upwardly between the feed dogs.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in the presence of two witnesses.

Josnrn BERGER, .ni

A1Witnesses:

A. J. Bancmn, ARTHUR L; Wmcox.

will 

